Personal Safety Step One – Threat Avoidance

In the world of threat management and protection there are three ways to handle a threat as it develops from a potential threat to an actual physical attack: threat avoidance, threat mitigation and threat defense.

For example if you can't avoid a verbal argument with someone and they start to raise their voice, you could mitigate the threat by not shouting back at them. Shouting back only adds fuel to the fire. Your personal safety is better served trying to do everything you can to defuse the situation and lower the probability of the threat progressing to a physical attack. Failure to avoid or mitigate the threat and its progression would result in only one option – to defend against the physical threat.

Threat Avoidance results in the easiest and least amount of threat impact and is the most effective means of increasing your personal safety. Mitigation takes more time and effort than avoidance. Defense is the least desirable, as the price tag for a physical confrontation is considerably higher. The best of these three is avoidance so let's focus our scope of study directly on this option. Personal Safety is your responsibility!

The very first step to threat avoidance is threat identification, whether natural, such as inclement weather or man-made, such as a home invasion or kidnapping.  Any criminal or terrorist who has the motivation, capability and opportunity to mount attacks against you or your family can be considered a potential threat. If you cannot identify the potential threats, or choose to ignore them, your personal safety is more at risk than someone who chooses to assess the world as it is, vice how we might like it to be!

Looking at it from the predator's perspective—you and anyone or anything of value or importance to you, can be considered targets. Being able to change your perspective allows you to identify and effectively manage real-world threats. Thus, one method of identifying any potential threat is to attempt to look at the world from the predator's perspective.

For example, look at your home from the predator's perspective. Does it offer them any opportunity to satisfy their motivations and employ their capabilities? Do you have unlocked doors, open windows or tools you may have left in the yard such as ladders or screwdrivers, which they may use to ply their craft? The very first step to avoiding the threat of a home invasion is to not make it easy for a predator to select your home as a target.

Criminals and terrorists do not possess superhuman capabilities. They know what they need to do, and in what order to be successful. They know they have to get everything correct to be successful. More importantly, they know you only have to prevent them from completing one step in their process in order for them to fail. Your personal safety is far more dependent on your actions than on that of a predator. What I mean is your personal safety is directly under your personal control!

The fact is criminals all have a menu of choices from which they must choose. Fortunately for us, that menu is limited. You could not bomb the World Trade Center without explosive materials and you cannot take money from a victim who fails to show up for your robbery. The benefit of choosing to enhance your personal safety via threat avoidance is it allows you to make realistic risk-based assessments. The more effective your assessments, the better your ability to manage a threat. If you can accurately assess and act on that assessment – prior to a threat progressing to an actual attack – then you hold all the cards. This principle helps to set your threat management priorities and stay one step ahead of most predators. Personal safety is once again under your control.

One of the most often overlooked, yet easiest to understand, preventative concept is to altogether avoid a potential threat—don't be there in the first place—do not purposefully place yourself in harm's way! As easy as it may sound, you would be surprised at how many people will not follow this simple admonition of the professionals. They generally blow it off and say such things as "Well, I'm going anyway," or "Nothing's going to happen."

A potential threat, say confronting an intoxicated aggressive young male, may not manifest into an actual threat. Of course there exists a higher probability that it will, if you are in a bar district at 2 a.m., and much less likely if you are asleep in your bed at home. So simply leaving the bar scene early or not going reduces this threat significantly. If you choose to put yourself into a potentially threatening situation, you are by default hanging your personal safety on your ability to mitigate rather then avoid a likely threat.

There are many different levels of threat out there. Levels range from what you may consider unprofessional or inappropriate behavior to an actual physically assault. The greater the risk, the greater the amount of effort it will take to mitigate or defend against it. It will always be more effective and easier to maintain your personal safety if you simply avoid the threat in the first place.

Unfortunately, it is not possible to completely avoid all threats, but the possibility of doing so should not be overlooked. For example, at the height of a blizzard you may not want to go out for a Sunday drive. If you are planning on traveling to a foreign country, you should be aware of the risks. For instance, if that country is in the middle of extreme civil unrest or sweeping anti-American sentiment, then you may not want to get on an airplane bound  wearing an "America love it or leave it" t-shirt.

One key to your personal safety is simply to stay ahead of the potential threats and avoid them. You can accomplish this is by simply taking a minute to identify the likely threat you may experience. What gives you the edge in identifying a potential threat is by assessing your intended activities prior to executing them. If you expect to see threatening behavior and have cued yourself to look for it, and more effectively avoid it. Simply thinking through where are you going and what are you going to do before you actually go somewhere (from the predator's perspective – not your own) can help you avoid becoming a victim. You, not the predator, control your personal safety!

Learn more in our Personal Security Lecture Series!

First Published at Aegis Academy

About Author

Steve Tarani

Preventative Defense Guest Lecturer at Aegis Academy

Serving the federal training community for more than 25 years, Steve is a respected Protective Programs subject matter expert (SME) and service provider to numerous high/ low-profile US federal agencies and the private sector. Specializing in operational readiness, he is actively contracted by the US Department of Defense, National Security Agency, Federal Bureau of Investigation, Department of Homeland Security, Drug Enforcement Administration, and many others. Steve is himself a former US Defense Intelligence employee (CIA), Protective Programs Educator and formerly on staff at the US DOE National Security Institute (Security Force Training Dept.) at Kirkland Air Force Base (NM). At the time of this writing, he is a published author of seven books and remains an advisor to the US Department of Justice (USDOJ) and the International Association of Chiefs of Police (IACP). He is additionally a knife designer and the architect of IACP Model Policy on the carry and usage of knives by federal, state and municipal peace officers.

How Do I Choose Which Rifle to Buy?

So you have decided to buy a rifle, but the big question still remains: Which rifle should you choose?  There are many options and this can make the choice intimidating for some, especially when you start to consider the high cost of some rifles.  No one wants to get a bad deal, but making a smart buy is difficult when you aren’t quite sure what makes one option better than the other.  This happens to me every time I am unfortunate enough to find myself in a home goods or furniture store.

The good news is (for you rifle shoppers, at least) there is a great deal of information about firearms, and rifles specifically, available online and elsewhere.  Actually, just ask any random person and they will likely have an opinion about the pros and cons of firearms.  This leads me to the bad news: a great deal of the information out there about firearms is incorrect.  As with any research, you must consider the source of the information and decide whether or not you trust it enough to allow it to influence your decision.  With that in mind, I will provide you with some general guidelines you can use to help orient yourself in your search to find which rifle is best for you.  I will use the five F’s – fit, function, finances, F’ing trigger mechanisms, and final thoughts – in an effort to break the process down into understandable sections.

 

Fit

 

If you want to buy a rifle and you intend to use it at some point, it is important you are able to wield it safely and effectively.  Firearms manufacturers want to sell their products, so firearms tend to be designed in a manner that makes them comfortable to hold for most people.  However, there are still decisions to be made.  Rifles come in a variety of forms, but there are three main parts of any rifle that you will need to hold in order to use it correctly.  They are the stock, grip and forearm.

Other rifles have a slightly different, more modern look.  The main differences as far as fit is concerned are the potential for an adjustable stock, and the pistol grip in front of the stock, instead of the more traditional upper/lower tang configuration.

When deciding which rifle is best for you, I highly recommend a visit to a gun store or training course (such as the Aegis Academy Familiarization Course) that will allow you to hold various styles of rifles.  Make sure you can fit the stock against your body, around your shoulder area and rest your cheek against it.  This serves as an important reference point for you to use when looking down the sights of a rifle.  Also make sure you can place your hand around the grip and easily reach the trigger with your index finger.  Your remaining hand should be able to reach forward of the trigger guard and hold the forearm, to support the front end of the rifle.  If the rifle is too large for you to hold in this manner, or if it is too heavy for you to lift and hold roughly parallel to the ground while shouldered, it is likely not the model for you.  Shooting a rifle is never really comfortable (it’s a machine that channels explosions, after all) but it shouldn’t be a challenge simply to point it at your target.

Trigger control is one of the most important aspects of marksmanship, and the mechanical function of the trigger in your firearm can have a big effect on how you move your hands (and sometimes the gun) when you pull the trigger.  While this can get very technical and complicated, for the new rifle owner, it is less of a concern when compared to other factors.  The decision is much easier when compared to buying a pistol, for example.  I would still recommend trying out various rifles and feeling the triggers to get an idea of what you are dealing with.  Make sure that you can firmly hold the grip of the rifle (not a shaking white knuckled grip) and reach the trigger with your index finger.  The webbing of your hand should be pressed against the rear of the grip and centered, for the most part.  If you have to slide your hand to reach the trigger, the grip of the rifle may be too large for you. A good rule of thumb is to be able to place the trigger in the center of the outermost digit on your index finger.  Just make sure you can reach and pull the trigger comfortably.

 

Function

 

This is generally where I start when deciding if I need to purchase a rifle, and then to decide which rifle I should choose.  There is such a wide variety of rifles available, and many are highly specialized for specific tasks.  To get the most bang for your buck (pun absolutely intended) deciding what you will actually use the rifle for is critical.  To help you along, here are a few common reasons for rifle ownership.  Is the rifle meant to be used for hunting, defense, sport, education or target shooting?  These categories are not mutually exclusive, and in an effort to save money, I try to make my purchases satisfy multiple categories.

For example: an effective hunting rifle can also sometimes pull additional duty as a defensive or sporting rifle.  When choosing which rifle to hunt with, start by researching the animal you want to hunt.  Find out what caliber you will need to reliably and efficiently kill the animal, what range you will likely have to shoot from, and use those factors to help narrow your choices.

For defensive reasons rifle caliber is also very important, but concerns such as magazine capacity, action type and ease of use are also critical.  I almost never recommend a rifle for self-defense purposes, for most people a shotgun is a vastly better choice.

A sporting rifle’s requirements differ based on the type of event.  Some very general research into the type of game you wish to participate in will point you in the right direction.  If the rifle is meant to be used mainly for education or basic target shooting/plinking then the caliber of the rifle is a big factor, although for different reasons.  If the rifle is meant to be used with new shooters, consider a smaller caliber that may be less intimidating, such as .22 LR or something similar.  Ammunition in calibers such as .22 LR can also be significantly cheaper.  Ensure the rifle is size appropriate for whoever it is you may be educating or target shooting with.  Some manufacturers sell youth models of their firearms specifically for this purpose.

Finances

 

The financial aspect of buying a rifle is probably the first factor most people consider when trying to choose which rifle is right for them.  Rifle quality is generally reasonably reflected in its cost, but that does not mean you have to spend a great deal in order to meet your personal needs. All too often new gun owners will pay too much and buy a rifle that is well in excess of their requirements.  In the same way a more expensive guitar doesn’t make you a better musician, a more expensive rifle won’t improve your marksmanship.  I recommend adding the frills only after you understand what you are buying, and whether or not you really need them.

The cost of a rifle varies widely based on what it is designed to do.  If you are looking for a basic hunting or target shooting rifle with a bolt action, you can get a quality firearm from a reputable manufacturer in the $300 to $400 range.  If you are just looking for a basic rifle for educational purposes in .22 LR, you will likely be able to find something in the $200 to $300 range.
If you are more interested in a tactical style rifle, like some variant of an AR-15, expect to pay a little bit more. A quality AR variant in .22 LR will likely cost between $500 and $600.  An AR variant built to fire higher pressure rounds such as the 5.56 x 45mm or the .308 Winchester will be more expensive.  Prices for AR variants in these calibers can sometimes be as low as the $600 to $700 range, but scale up quickly and can easily cost thousands.

Of course if you are willing to spend more, the sky is the limit.  There are other factors to consider when pricing a rifle.  Ammunition is the most important.  All rifles need ammunition in order to function, and very rarely is rifle ammunition cheap.  Ammunition prices have increased dramatically in the last few years, and rifle ammunition is often more expensive than shotgun or pistol ammunition.  Consider how often you will be firing the rifle and the average cost of the ammunition, and then factor this into your research.

 

Final Thoughts

Choosing which rifle can be a difficult decision, but you’ve made a great start by researching before you buy.  The more you take the time to research your purchase, the more it will suit you, and the less likely you are to pay for something you don’t need.  Remember, the fancy looking rifle isn’t always the best shooting one.  It all comes down to what you want to be able to do with the rifle.

I have made some broad assertions and simplifications throughout this article.  By all means dig deeper, and feel free to stop by the community library for more information.  I also encourage you to speak with a local instructor, and try out various rifles at a local range before you buy.  Choosing which rifle to buy can be an intimidating choice, but it is also a rewarding one.  Good luck and enjoy your new rifle!
First Published at Aegis Academy

About Author

 

- Joshua Neill

 

Marine Corps

Josh served in the Marine Corps in the reconnaissance community and has multiple operational deployments. He served in two of the three Reconnaissance battalions and as an instructor at Special Operations Training Group. Since his departure from the Marine Corps, he has worked as an instructor at Special Missions Training Branch, and as a security contractor for Garda, Lexicon and Skye Maritime. Josh is a certified NRA Handgun and Shotgun Instructor and holds an extensive list of USMC certification and qualifications.

The New York Safe Act – Largely Upheld by the Federal Courts

Here are a few thoughts on the recent New York SAFE Act decision, which was challenged, and largely upheld by the United States District Court for the Western District of New York. Of note was the courts decision to strike down the seven round limit as "arbitrary". While that has been clear to all but the authors of this bill for quite some time, the effect of this judgment (the most recent federal interpretation of the second amendment) has granted wide powers to the state of New York to impose severe restrictions on the rights of its citizens via the New York SAFE Act. Specifically, it establishes federal precedent for the the following, which are constitutional issues:

• Registration of all privately owned weapons does not constitute infringement.
• Capacity limitations do not constitute infringement – or at least 10 rounds is acceptable, however a 7 round restriction is considered unreasonable.
• Limitations on arbitrary cosmetic appearance features, like pistol grips have now been found to constitute a reasonable threat to public safety due to their association with mass murders and their restriction does not constitute infringement.
• 10/30 round magazines, which can be "easily converted", constitute a reasonable threat to public safety and their restriction does not constitute infringement.
• Requiring all ammunition must be transferred via a face to face transaction involving state licensed ammunition dealer does not violate interstate commerce clauses.

We can debate the legal methodology and mechanisms by which the decision to uphold the New York SAFE Act was arrived at. There may even be some elements of the decision (and I believe there are), which will be overturned in the appeal. From a legal perspective, what this supports is the expansion of the mishmash of laws across the states and counties (and cities in the case of New York City and a few others). We now have precedent that sets the standard the above are prudent restrictions on the Second Amendment, and state governments have the power to make these decisions.

You can expect lobbying at the city and country level across this nation to begin in earnest by the gun control lobby. Their impact in California was only salvaged largely by the Governor Jerry Brown’s veto of a number of CA bills that would have resulted in similar, and in some cases, more restrictive laws. Now that states have a federal benchmark, you can expect this financial support from the gun control lobby to push their agenda to the lowest level possible. The financial burden of fighting these ineffective laws will be astronomical.

This is the case for federal legislation, defining the constitutional parameters of gun ownership in the country. If we do not accomplish a federal standard, we will see the restriction and erosion of gun rights across this nation, one city at a time. The complexity of the ensuing system will make it simply impractical to carry a firearm to the range in the next county or city, if this is allowed to continue unchecked.

In short the key failing here is not that the New York SAFE Act is going to be imposed on the citizens of New York largely as written (although that is certainly a failure). The key issue here is the establishment of federal precedent giving states the ability to determine what constitutes infringement on a case by case basis.

You can read the legal decision upholding the New York SAFE Act here. His references include a resurfacing of many of the provisions in United States v. Miller. Specifically seeming to indicate that past interpretations that individual ownership of firearms was not provided for in the Second Amendment are more accurate. This was found to be unconstitutional (by a narrow margin) in District of Columbia v. Heller. The more recent case law clearly establishes the right to own firearms an individual one. Chief Judge Skretny clearly does not support that interpretation, and has cherry picked a number of phrases and sentences from existing case law in finding a means to support the New York SAFE Act.

For more reading you can find the study by Chris Koper, 1994, which is continually referenced in the finding. Mr. Koper does a much better job of expressing the limitations of his findings in his writing. The courts decision largely ignore the limitations, and actually reference the top estimates of statistical validity in study. Once again, the piecemeal approaches to attacking the underpinning of the finding are important and must be pursued.

It is invalidating the approach of attacking the second amendment one city at time is what we need to pursue federal legislation to accomplish.

First Published at Aegis Academy
 

About Author

- Patrick Henry

President, Aegis Academy

Pat Henry received his operational training and experience from the U. S. Government, 22 years of which were spent in the Marine Corps where he served in the Reconnaissance, Infantry and Intelligence fields. During his active service, he spent more then seven years deployed overseas in combat, operational and training assignments. After the military, Pat worked as a contractor and as the Director of Operations at a private paramilitary firm specializing in training military special operations forces and providing protective services to select private clients. His education consists of an MBA from the University of Southern California (USC), and a BS from San Diego State University with an emphasis in Biochemistry, Cell and Molecular Biology and a minor in Psychology. He holds an extensive list of security and training related certifications from a variety of government and nationally recognized entities. He has an extensive entrepreneurial background ranging from real estate and technology, to the security training and education market. He currently sits on the advisory committee at USC’s Master of Veterans Business Program, and is an active member of Infraguard and the American Society of Industrial Security (ASIS). He has been a guest speaker at ASIS, the San Diego Industrial Security Awareness Council and other private organizations on physical security, travel security, and competitive intelligence collection counter-measures.

Gun Safes – What to know before you buy!

If you own a firearm, you need a gun safe. We'll get to what safe in minute, but spend a few seconds on why. Regardless of what state you live in, level of proficiency with the gun, or family situation, proper storage is your responsibility. Many states, including California, have enacted legislation, which will make you legally responsible if you do not properly store your firearms. You need to know the regulations and laws in your state, but beyond that there is a moral obligation all responsible gun owners have to protect their firearms from begin stolen by criminals. A gun safe is the best way to do that. Now back to what gun safe to buy!

Deciding on what gun safe to buy can be a daunting task. Looking past manufacturer claims and other gun owners' opinions are four real factors to consider in your purchase. Fit, Function, Finances, and F'ing Rating systems. If you just want some ideas and considerations, skip to the do's & don'ts section toward the end – if you want to get into the details a bit more – here we go!

Fit: What size gun safe will fit in the space you want to put it, and how much does the size and weight affect that decision.

Function: How many firearms, and what type, do you want to store. Do you want to conceal the safe? Do you need quick access? What kind of lock works best for you, and is it fire safe?

Finance: How much is in your budget? Can you afford to spend more for better protection, desired features, or perks?

F'ing rating systems: They have a word for people who truly understand this stuff – they call them lock smiths. I'll try and keep it simple!

Fit and Function = Size and Weight

If you have a large collection you need a large gun safe. If you plan on adding optics to your guns, you need space between the firearms so they do not get scratched or banged up as you take them in and out. Plan to add a shelf on the top for magazines and extra gear. A safe of about 56 to 58 inches should hold most long guns. Interior space will depend on how many guns you want to store.

Common sizes range from a small hand sized pistol safe to 60 inch gun safes that will hold dozens of rifles, and still have space left over for handguns and shelves. When it comes to weight, a 500-pound safe is not that heavy. A 2000-pound safe on the other hand is probably static – but that will require professional installation – and you may not like the cost of moving it if you buy a new home! If its not permanent, consider two smaller ones if you need that much space. Around 750 pounds is a good compromise. Heavy, but you can move it with a dolly when needed.

What if you want a concealable or quick access safe? Obviously weight is an issue, but you are trading both capacity and durability for compact size or the ability to mount it in a wall or drawer. These safes are designed for that purpose and are generally not designed for large collections. A good example of a quick access handgun safe is GunVault or Stack on. You will lose thickness and durability as a trade for accessibility, but most of these brands still provide fire safety ratings on par with larger safes.

Companies like Bed Bunker or Ledgelokr offer a line of closet, wall, and furniture concealed safes as well as options for your vehicle. The price of a concealable safe is high, with rifle and shotgun versions ranging from $1000 to $2500. Hand safes for handguns can be found easily for between $75 and $200. GunVault 2000 can be found at Cabela's for $165 and comes with both key locks and code versions. Smaller safes like this are great to give you access at night should you need it, but their portability make them unsuitable for long term storage.

Fit and Finances = Construction and Thickness

The quality of the safe is important, and you should go with a known, trusted manufacturer. When choosing your safe, continuous welding is better than stitch welding. Cheap safes use plastic bonding instead of welding, which is much weaker and not fire resistant. A fire axe can penetrate a 12-gauge panel of steel, while 10-gauge will take a concrete saw to cut into. The thickness of the steel will make cutting or drilling harder, but they will also be much heavier. Eight to 10 gauge steel provides the best balance between the two, 8 Gauge steel being 3/16 inch thick.

Function and Finances = Locking Mechanisms, Bolts, and Hinges

There are traditional biometric locks and rotary and digital combination locks. Of course key locked gun safes are available, but as they are the easiest to defeat, I do not recommend them. For tall free-standing safes, or gun safes where ease of access is not a requirement, I would recommend a rotary or digital lock. There is a reason rotary locks are still around and in use – they work. They are more durable and trouble free than electronic ones. Tough they can be considered less convenient and they do take more time to open than a digital version.

A quality safe will have at least two bolts on each side of the door (meaning all four sides, right, left, top, and bottom). In this case more is better, and many high-end safes have several bolt locks. Multiple bolts prevent prying attempts on the door, and make drilling time consuming and difficult. The bolt linkage is a more likely the target of attack, by drilling a hole to insert tools to move one bolt inward, causing all of them to move and disengage.

Hinges come down to internal vs external, and in actuality have little to do with the locking ability of the gun safe. External hinges allow the door to be opened 180 degrees, and can often be removed for transport. Cutting or attacking the hinges does nothing to defeat the locking bolts on a safe. Internal hinges give a smoother outside finish, a thinner profile and are useful in concealed and/or handgun safes.

F'ing Rating systems…

This stuff is confusing. Here in the U.S. – Underwriters Laboratory (UL) ratings are the standard, and here is the short version:

Group I locks are resistant to skilled attacks. What that really means is they are expensive, and designed for banks and larger businesses.

Group II locks are resistant to semi skilled attacks. There are available, affordable, and adequate to keep thieves away from your guns.

When looking for a good lock, look for a UL Group II certification, which means they are resistant to semi-skilled lock picking attempts. A good example of a rotary combination lock is the Sargent & Greenleaf model 6730. I have seen this lock listed on several forums as both a great value and reliable. Just make sure you spin the lock when you close the door!

Digital locks are quicker, and, unlike rotary locks, lock themselves when the door is shut. They do require batteries, which should be replaced every year, and with any electronic device they have a failure rate. You want to buy a good commercial grade lock that will not wear out from regular use. The combinations on digital locks are easier to change, and of course easier to forget if you change it regularly. Buying a Group II digital lock typically comes with a feature that locks the bolt should the keypad be punched or forcibly removed. Again Sargent & Greenleaf products seem to get great reviews. Find more information on the subtypes of electronic locks here.

UL Residential Security Container (RSC) is the minimum standard you should have for your gun safe. Essentially to obtain an RSC rating, the safe goes through a battery of tests including heating it to different temperatures, drop tests, indirect explosions, and lock tampering. Ratings like TL-15 correspond to the amount of time common tools will take to defeat the safe. TL-15 is 15 minutes; TL-30 is 30 minutes, and so forth. Note these are attacks against the gun safe door, and the sides are more vulnerable. There are other testing systems such as: B.T.U/V.D.M.A. certifications (Germany), J.I.S. (Japan), and CSTB (France). For detailed information on Underwriters Laboratory and descriptions of all the ratings and terms go to www.ul.com or www.gunsafes.com.

Underwriters Laboratory completes the fire safety ratings that are approved by OSHA as well. Another standard is Intertek ETL, used by companies like Cannon and Sentry Safe, and their standards meet or exceed UL's according to their websites. One concern is that there is no oversight for manufactures claims, so watch out for terms like "UL listed fire liner", "fire board", or "ceramic fire layer". These are the components used – not the standard to which they are tested. Fire ratings are typically denoted in time increments. 15, 30, and 60 minutes are fairly common, and longer is generally better – and more expensive.

The average house fire can exceed 1200 degrees F within 10 minutes, and while many safes are rated for higher temperatures, the testing conditions are done at a slower pace to inflate the protection time claim. The best commercial grade safes are "B" rated construction, typically used by businesses like jewelers and banks. Quality materials you should look for are sheet-rock with fiberglass embedded and ceramic wool. For more on fire ratings check here.

Finally know what kind of door seals your safe comes with. Low-end safes come un-sealed, which increases the possibility of moist air seeping in, creating rust on your valuable firearms. A good seal will protect against rust, prevent flooding, and seal the safe in a fire, as well as provide protection against water damage from fire hose spray.

This 13 minute video covers a lot of the topics covered in this article and will show some examples of attacks on safes and may be worth watching if you want even more information.

A few Do's and Dont's for Gun Safes…

Research the gun safe's specifications

Bigger isn't always better, heavy gauge steel is better than light gauge and harder to drill or cut through. Many large gun safes are thin walled and can be penetrated by an axe or pick. Like the gauge on a shotgun, the lower the number the thicker the walls. Eight to 10 gauge steel is a good compromise between strong vs light, as most personal gun safes are not broken into ala' the Italian Job, but snatched and broken into later. Also look at the way the steel is welded. You want a safe that is continuously welded, vice stitch welded for better strength and durability. Look for a safe with UL RSC.

Research the gun safe's tampering safeguards

A quality safe will feature devices to defeat drilling. Battery-powered hand tools can easily defeat a cheap safe. What you are looking for are re-lockers to help ensure the safe remains locked in the case of a burglary. These are hardened pins that are triggered during an attack, and cannot be retracted. The number of re-lockers depends on the safe's size and burglary grade.

Buy a fire resistant gun safe

Spend the extra money, but make sure you read the specifications; many fireproof safes are in fact, not. Look for the UL RSC rating, which specifies the time temperature the safe can tolerate. Safes lined with sheet rock are low end, ceramic wool is better, and high-end safes have concrete and vermiculite. According to the U.S. Fire Administration there were 364,500 house fires totaling more than six billion in damages. So spend the extra money.

Don't store powder or primers inside your gun safe

Do not create a bomb by placing explosive compounds in a seal container. Store them in a separate cabinet of light material like wood, and if possible limit the amount to what is required to prevent larger damage.

Don't make it easy to steal your safe

Take into consideration where you place it. You should never place a gun safe in an area where it can be easily seen. Do not rely on the weight of the gun safe to stop a thief; a pallet jack can easily lift a large heavy safe. If possible attach the safe to a hardened point like a wall stud or the floor. An easy to steal safe is just a mobile container, once in the truck, I can take it anywhere and go to work on it!

Final considerations:

Once you have figured out what kind of safe you need, you can look into other aspects of your safe, the interior layout for large safes, lighting, anchoring, and securing the safe, flood protection, and of course maintenance of the gun safe and its contents. Just like any other meaningful purchase, shop around and look at the specifications before you buy. Read reviews on the products you're considering and go to a reputable store or dealer. You should also be aware of the laws and regulations regarding storage of firearms and what standards on gun safes your state has. Its up to you to make the right choice, protect your investment, and protect your family. Buy a quality gun safe.

First Published at Aegis Academy

Posted by Aegis Academy Staff.